After booking and planning my trip to England, I quickly realized that my wallet wouldn’t be able to sustain two weeks of spending British pounds. Thanks to Google Flights’ Explore feature, I found several flights under $100 from London to various other European cities. I settled for Milan which cost me $77 with Ryanair. Now this was right around the time Ryanair announced that they would be cancelling hundred of flights until the end of October (a policy which has been extended to 2018 by the way) so I was admittedly worried. But other than delays on both of my departures, it was all good. Read on to find out how I spent my time in Italy’s fashion capital.
Transportation in Milan
There are several ways to reach the city from Malpensa Airport. Trains via trenitalia, taxis, and buses. There are several express buses that go to the Central train station. I took the first one I could find. The city center is very walkable. I bought a “carnet” of 10 tickets for public transportation (€13.80) and ended up using only 2 tickets during my entire stay.
Where to Stay in Milan
Hotels in Central Milan were way over my budget so I booked a private room on Airbnb. The apartment was 15-20 minutes walking distance to the Duomo in a quiet residential neighborhood. In other words, it was perfect. I also spent my last night at the MOXY Hotel by the airport because I didn’t want to have to go to the bus station in the middle of the night for safety reasons (lots of shady characters around the Central station).
Where to Get a SIM Card in Milan
Since I was going to visit two countries (plus a 24-hour stopover in Iceland), I bought a pre-paid SIM from Always Online Wireless which let me top up for whatever country I needed. I bought the 500 MB plan for Italy. The plan becomes active as soon as you pay or at a scheduled time so it was easy switching plans on the fly.
[2020 update: Sadly, Always Online Wireless no longer exists. If I ever return to Italy, I’ll update this section]
Milan Itinerary
Day 1: Transfer from Malpensa Airport to City Center
After spending the night at Stansted Airport, I didn’t do much upon my arrival in Milan. I took the bus from Malpensa Airport to Central Station. I did my best to dodge all the hobos squatting the train station. I bought a pack of 10 tickets for transportation and made my way to my Airbnb by bus. There, I promptly did my laundry and took a nap. It was an uneventful day.
Day 2: A Whole Lotta Churches
When most people think of Milan, the first thought that comes to mind is il Duomo, the third largest church in the world. Akthough the gothic cathedral was high on my list, it wasn’t at the top. Nope. My first stop was the Santuario Di San Bernardino Alle Ossa. What is so special about this church, you may ask. Well, the walls of its chapel are almost all covered with skulls and bones, giving it a creepy – but also awesome – atmosphere.
The story goes that most of the remains are from overflowing cemeteries and hospital corpses, except the skulls above the door. Those are from executed prisoners. Pretty morbid. Pretty badass.
Next, I made my way to the Duomo. Unlike most churches in Milan, the Duomo isn’t free. You have to go buy your tickets either at the Museo Duomo or at the ticket office a few steps away when the Museum is closed. There are several ticket options. The entry ticket which also includes the museum is €3.50. The Duomo Pass which includes the entry ticket and the terraces/rooftop is €12.50 if taking the stairs, €16.50 if taking the elevator. You can also visit the terraces separately for €9.50 (stairs) and €13.50 (elevator). I opted for the terrace-only ticket, skipping the interior of the Duomo. If you opt for the Duomo Pass, double-check the opening hours of the Museum and Baptistery.
The climb to the roof wasn’t too bad. The view at the top was fantastic and it also gives you an opportunity to take a closer look at the numerous pinnacles and spires.
From the Duomo, I walked through the magnificent – and crowded – Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, walked past la Scala, and continued all the way to Castello Sforzesco. The castle hosts several museums, all of which were closed on the day I visited. I intend to return in the future to check out the Museum of Rondanini Pietà which includes Michelangelo’s last sculpture. A word of caution, the African bracelet scammers are very aggressive in this area.
I spent a bit of time at Parco Sempione, a huge park adjacent to the Sforzesco Castle. Unlike London’s Hyde Park, Park Simplon was very peaceful at mid-day. The park benches were mostly occupied by old people or young couples. At the other end of the park, the Arco della Pace stands tall. There are several restaurants and gelato shops on Piazza Sempione and Corso Sempione, right behind the arch, which makes it a perfect location for lunch or a picnic at the park.
I stopped by two more churches on my way back to my Airbnb. The first was Santa Maria delle Grazie which is also a Dominican convent and hosts Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” Although the church is free, you have to pay a fee to see Da Vinci’s mural. Tickets are sold out a long time in advance. The only other option is to book a group tour but even those get sold out. If you’d only like to visit the church, note that it opens in the morning, closes for lunch, and then re-opens at 3 pm.
The second church was the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, one of the oldest churches in Milan. It was built in the 4th century. Inside there is a small museum which requires a small fee. However, if there is no attendant, no one will stop you from entering. You do however have to pay 50 cents to see the golden dome of the shrine of San Vittore in Ciel d’Oro in its full splendor as the lights are controlled by a slot machine. Pretty ingenious way to get money from tourists if you ask me.
Day 3: Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore, Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, Palazzo Clerici, Pinacoteca di Brera, Cimitero Monumentale
On Day 3, I scaled down the church visits to see other sights and ended up wasting a lot of time stopping by places that weren’t accessible.
First was the Rotonda della Besana, a building complex consisting of a deconsacrated church and a garden surrounded by a colonnade portico. I was planning on taking a few pictures there only to be stopped by a construction crew working in the garden and putting up tents for some sort of event.
Disappointed, I made my way to Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore, another really old church. It was the only place where I found a black Jesus. Yes, I do keep track of those things. The most interesting part of this church was the Chapel of Saint Aquilino which features 4th-century Paleochristian mosaics. In the same chapel, you can also go down below the church to see its foundations if you’re interested in architecture. There is a €2 entry fee to visit the chapel.
From San Lorenzo, I made my way to Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, the most beautiful place of worship of this trip in my opinion. Although it looks bland and ordinary on the outside, the inside is a feast for the eyes with vivid and vibrant frescoes covering almost every wall. The church is divided into two parts: one for the faithful, one for the nuns. Visitors have access to both sides so don’t think you’re done once you’ve walked around the entrance room. And best part is, it’s completely free! I still left a donation to support the volunteers working at the church as I felt they and the church deserved at least something. There is an archeological museum attached to the church but I did not visit it. The museum is not free.
My next stop was Piazza Affari to take a few pictures with the “Love” sculpture. Unfortunately, the entire plaza was closed off with tarps as construction was going on. In the morning, I was only slightly disappointed by the construction at the Rotonda della Besana. This one really pissed me off as I was really looking forward to it.
This disappointment was followed by a funny little incident when I went to Palazzo Clerici. You won’t find Palazzo Clerici mentioned in many guides. I added it to my list after seeing some interior shots on Google. When I got there, I was very confused, there were no signs that this was a touristic attraction apart from a panel at the entrance. I followed the number one rule there is when entering an unfamiliar place: act like you belong. My quest was simple. I wanted to find the rooms from the Google pictures. I took a random red-carpeted stairway as I figured fancy carpet equals fancy place. The first floor looked like the offices of some high-end store so I went up to the second floor. The second floor was completely abandoned. I walked around, the old wood panels creaking under my footsteps. I did not find the Google room but I did find a similar room with windows overlooking the courtyard.
I guess someone must have spotted me because as I was setting up my tripod to take pictures of myself, a man came up and told me that I shouldn’t be here. Or I guess that’s what he told me. I don’t speak Italian. With a mix of sign language and repeating the word “photo,” he understood that I was just taking pictures. He gathered up all the English he could muster and said “No photo. Closed.” I figured I would leave this room and continue to explore via another wing but he kept an eye on me and insistently pointed to the exit. My day here was done.
Since I missed out on museums on Day 2, I double-checked the museum schedules on Day 3 and managed to visit Pinacoteca di Brera in the early afternoon. The “Brera Art Gallery” is the main public gallery for paintings in Milan. It contains numerous Italian paintings which are mostly centered around religion though there are a few non-religious pieces as well such as Francesco Hayez’ “The Kiss,” Pellizza da Volpedo’s “Human Flood,” and Umberto Boccioni’s “Riot in the Gallery.” The admission fee is €10 plus €5 for the audio-guide. Lockers to store your backpack are €1. After your visit, you can unwind for free at the Orto Botanico di Brera, a peaceful garden connected to the building.
It’s a good thing that I took the time to rest and eat at the Brera Botanical Garden as my next stop was a lot more challenging than I thought it would be. From the Palazzo Brera, I walked all the way to Cimitero Monumentale, the city’s second-largest cemetery. I knew the place was going to be huge but I still vastly underestimated how big it was. After meticulously examining the tombs in the first few sections, I gave up when I made it to the halfway point and saw multiple paths lying before me. I made my way to the closest map, took note of the most interesting tombs, went to see them, and then made my way back home. One could easily spend half a day visiting the cemetery to admire the various memorials and tombs.
Day 4: il Duomo
After the insane amount of walking I did on Day 3, I took it easy on Day 4.
I lazed around in the morning, leaving my Airbnb at close to noon. Since it was my last day in the city, I decided to go inside the Duomo this time around.
Leaving my place so late was a big mistake. It took me at least half an hour just to get my ticket (where I learned that the Baptistry was closed for the day), and then another 45 minutes waiting in line to get inside the church. While in line, I struck up conversation with two retired American women who were on a Eurotrip so we didn’t really feel the long wait, thankfully. Though I can’t imagine how long the wait is in the summer.
The first thing that hits you when you enter the church is how big it is. The base of the columns are the height of an average person. The forest of columns reminded me of the mines of Moria from the Lord of the Rings film trilogy. I did not want to pay for yet another audioguide so I hovered close to a guided tour to learn bits and pieces about the church. If you have a bit of patience, this is a good way to learn facts about a touristic sight.
After the Duomo, I wandered for a couple of hours, stopping by a steakhouse to splurge on a meal for my last day, then I went back to my Airbnb to finish packing.
The rest of the day was uneventful. I walked to the Central train station, took a bus to the airport, and stayed overnight at the MOXY hotel by the airport. I had an early flight in the morning because I wasn’t going to sleep overnight in an airport again. The night ended up costing me around 75 cents, thanks to my points and I had a decent night sleep considering I had to be up at 4 AM.
I really enjoyed my time in Milan. It’s a city that I’ll definitely visit again. Though I don’t think I’ll spend more than a couple of days since I saw almost everything that I wanted to see. But I definitely appreciated the more relaxed pace when compared to London.
Trip Breakdown
Total Spent: €71
Attractions: €31.50
Souvenirs: €8
Transport: €31.3
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