Barcelona was never very high on my list of destinations to visit but when I found a flight with Wow Air under $400, I jumped at the opportunity to explore this famous European city. What I discovered was a city that is probably nice to live in but a complete ripoff for anyone interested in visiting touristic sights. That being said, if you’re keen on Modernista architecture and a beach city vibe, read on for my itinerary
Transportation in Barcelona
There are three ways to go from BCN to the city itself: the Aerobús (Barcelona’s airport shuttle bus), the regular city bus (line 46), or the RENFE R2 Nord suburban train line. The Aerobús is the fastest but the 46 bus and R2 train are cheaper. Since I was arriving late in an unfamiliar city famous for its pickpockets, I opted for the Aerobús instead of taking late-night public transportation. If you decide to do the same, I strongly suggest pre-bookig a 1-way ticket online as their machines are broken most of the time. The bus scanner will read the QR code off of your smartphone so no need to print your purchase confirmation. When leaving Barcelona, you can simply take the regular bus or train to the airport. If you’re pre-booking a round-trip ticket, don’t forget to keep the ticket handed to you by the driver. I accidentally threw mine away so that was €5 down the drain.
Inside the city, the buses and metro can take you wherever you need to go. One bus/metro ticket costs €2.15 so it’s best to get the T-10 card instead. The T-10 is valid on buses, trams, and trains (FGC and some RENFE lines). To know if all 10 trips have been used up, check the back of the card. If it says “Titol esgotat” below all your trips, then you need a new card.
Useful tip: Google Maps shows the bus schedule in real-time so you know exactly when to show up at the bus stop.
Where to Stay in Barcelona
Since my vacation coincided with Carnaval and the Mobile World Congress, all hotels were way out of my budget. I ended up booking a private room on Airbnb which was centrally located in the Gothic Quarter. The location was perfect as it allowed me to walk almost everywhere. I didn’t even get the T-10 card until Day 3 of my stay. If you cannot find any lodging in the Gothic Quarter, the Eixample neighborhood is another great option.
Where to Get a SIM Card in Barcelona
There are several companies providing prepaid SIM cards in the city. Since there is wi-fi on the Aerobús, you can avoid the overpriced SIM cards at the airport and buy one when you get in the city. I initially wanted a SIM card from Tuenti as they had one of the cheapest prepaid plans but their machines broke down at their big store in Plaça de Catalunya. They then sent me to their kiosk in the mall across the street only for me to find out that they didn’t sell prepaid SIMs at that kiosk. Frustrated, I walked into the first Orange store I could find and got a SIM activated in less than 10 minutes. If you’re looking to purchase a SIM card, avoid the stores near the touristic choke points (i.e. Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça d’Espanya, etc.), find a store in a small street and get your SIM there.
Barcelona Itinerary
Day 1: Barcelona Cathedral, Plaça de Catalunya, Montjuïc Magic Fountain
La Catedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia – also known as the Barcelona Cathedral – is free to visit early in the morning and late evenings. You can tack on €3 to visit the towers or the choir during those times. Visiting from 13:00 to 17:30 however requires a €7 donation. Cellular phones and cameras are banned from the Chapel of Lepanto. I went to the Cathedral around 10 AM, walked around, visited the cloisters where there is a gaggle of adorable geese, and left. I originally wanted to go up the towers but couldn’t find the ticket office so I gave up. I passed by the Cathedral several times during my stay and it gets really busy in the afternoon so I suggest going early in the morning or late evening.
Plaça de Catalunya is a short 10-minute walk from the Cathedral and is the Aerobús’ last stop. It was a very unremarkable square, surrounded by malls, shops, and hotels. All you need to know is that the Apple Store is there.
Up the street from Plaça de Catalunya is the famous Illa de la Discòrdia, a block noted for having buildings by four of Barcelona’s most important Modernista architects – Lluís Domènech i Montaner, Antoni Gaudí, Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Enric Sagnier – in close proximity. The houses are Casa Lleó-Morera, Casa Mulleras, Casa Amatller, and Casa Batlló. I took a few quick shots and then returned to my Airbnb as the rain was getting unbearable.
Thankfully, the rain let up just in time for the one thing I had planned to do on Day 1, the Magic Fountain of Montjuïc, an amazing display of light, music, and water coming together. The schedule varies according to seasons but the best part is that it’s absolutely free!!! Yep, it costs €0, zilch, nada. Do get there at least 30 minutes early if you want a good spot as it can get quite crowded.
Day 2: Güell Palace, Castell Montjuïc, Mirador de Colón
If you read any guidebook on Barcelona, they all mention La Rambla, the major artery going from Plaça de Catalunya to the Columbus monument. I honestly think that that street is more overrated than Les Champs-Élysées in Paris and Times Square in New York. The number of obstacles in the way as you make your way down – be it souvenir stands, performers, restaurant ushers – makes me see why that place is a big hunting ground for pickpockets. Watch your belongings there and don’t let anyone stand too close to you.
I escaped the crowds of La Rambla by ducking into Carrer Nou de la Rambla where the Güell Palace is located. Palau Güell was a residential building. It was one of the first important commissions Antoni Gaudí received at the start of his career. There was no line when I got there so I paid the €12 admission fee and immediately made my way inside. The audioguide is included in the fee but you need €1 to drop your backpack in a locker as they aren’t allowed. There’s no mention of this before you pay for your ticket. I was not pleased. The audioguide was very informative but it didn’t really interest me personally. The highlight of the house was the rooftop with what I call the mushrooms pictured below.
Castell Montjuïc was my next stop. To get there, you have to either hike, take the 150 bus, or Montjuïc Cable Car. There’s also the Montjuïc Funicular that takes you halfway up the mountain. Although the Funicular is covered by the T-10, the cable car (Telefèric de Montjuïc) isn’t. You’ll have to pay €12.50 for a round-trip ticket (get 10% off if you pre-book online). A bit much if you ask me but the views of the city are amazing.
The entrance to the Castle is €5 for a DYI tour, more for a guided tour. You are provided with your map and can explore at your own pace. Similar to the Güell Palace, I wasn’t very impressed with the Castle. I had basically paid €17.50 for nice views of the city. That kinda hurts the wallet.
To finish the day, I stopped by the Mirador de Colón, a 60 m (197 ft) tall monument dedicated to Christopher Columbus. It was €6 to go up to the top (inside a very a narrow elevator) and enjoy the view. You can get 15% off if you pre-book online.
Day 3: Camp Nou Experience, Sagrada Família, Parc de la Ciutadella
Day 3 was #BucketList Day. The first half of the day was dedicated to the cathedral of Catalan football, the Camp Nou and the second half was for the Sagrada Família. I had pre-booked tickets to both attractions a couple of weeks before my visit and was eagerly looking forward to visiting them. How did they fare? Read on.
The Camp Nou Experience (€25) was a dream come true although a very Disneyfied experience. You start by taking four pictures in front of a green screen at the start of the tour (with no obligation to purchase), then proceed to the Museum to see the astounding number of trophies and learn a bit of history. You then get to visit VIP seats, the visitors’ changing room, the press conference room, walk in the players tunnel to the pitch (with crowd sound effects to boot), sit on the home team bench, and see the pitch from the press box. In-between all of this, you’ll have your picture taken with the Champions League trophy and then once again at the end with your favorite player.
The green screen pictures turned out terrible for me as my afro-textured hair looked terribly fake. I did end up shelling out for the CL trophy picture because when else am I going to get that chance?
Despite this being the off-season, the Sagrada Família was very crowded. I cannot even begin to imagine what it looks like during the summer. I was initially put off by the difference in textures between the Nativity facade and the more recent construction, but all my worries went away once I stepped inside. One word – AMAZING! I had taken the 4:15 PM timeslot and the late afternoon sun was shining through the red and yellow stained glasses of the church, giving the inside an orange, almost-golden glow. I was mesmerized. Once I finished walking around, I exited through the Passion facade. I liked that side a lot more than the Nativity side. All in all, it was a great experience and I’ll probably go back someday to visit the towers.
One caveat though. A basic ticket for the Sagrada Família is €15 while the combined Entrance + Towers ticket is €29. These are exorbitant prices!!! Notre-Dame de Paris for example is absolutely free and you only pay to go up the towers. Doing some digging, I ended up paying €7 for the basic Sagrada Família ticket thanks to a promotion where Under 30s could get in at half-price after 4 PM. If you’re planning on visiting the Sagrada Família, definitely check to see if any discounts are available.
Between the Camp Nou and the Sagrada Família, I killed time at the Parc de la Ciutadella, a nice place to relax and people-watch. The Cascada Monumental was simply gorgeous and you can get lightly sprayed by its jets when going upstairs.
Day 4: Montserrat
Midway through the trip, I left the city, opting to spend some time in nature at Montserrat. To get to Montserrat, you can either take the bus or a suburban train. If you opt for the train, there are multiple ticket options given to you. I initially wanted the all-included ticket (train + cable car + museum + funiculars + lunch) but in the rush to purchase my ticket and the language barrier, I ended up with a train + cable car ticket for €20.20. My troubles didn’t end there, there are 3 Montserrat stops on the train line. To go on the cable car, you have to get off at Montserrat-Aeri. I missed that stop and ended up at Monistrol de Montserrat instead. Putting on my poker face, I confidently made my way to the funicular railway (Cremallera de Montserrat), flashed my ticket to the attendant and was able to get on at no extra charge.
Since I had taken the train that corresponds with the first cable car up, there weren’t that many people on the mountain when I got there. I had time to walk around and take a few pictures before the monastery opened up to visitors. I also sadly found out that the Stairway to Heaven sculpture was fenced off. The line to see la Moreneta started 15 minutes before opening. If you don’t want to spend more than 30 minutes in line to see her, I strongly suggest showing up before it opens as the line got quite long when I exited the monastery 20-30 minutes after opening.
After seeing the Black Virgin and walking around the grounds for a bit, I took the Sant Joan funicular further up the mountain to go hike to Sant Jeroni, the highest point in the Montserrat massif. The hike takes about an hour each way and the trail is very obvious but a bit confusing. Midway through, the lack of signage made me wonder if I was on the right trail, but then another sign came up confirming I was going in the right direction. If you feel lost, just ask any hiker on their way back. The hike was relatively easy. Don’t get me wrong, you will need proper hiking shoes as it gets slippery and rocky at some places but nothing too challenging. That is, until I got to the end. The last bit to the summit is three sets of steep stairs that made me curse whoever built this trail, but the view at the top was well worth it.
I took the Aeri back to the train station but I suggest you take the funicular instead to guarantee yourself a seat on the journey back to Barcelona.
Day 5: Casa Batlló, Park Güell
After sleeping for 12 hours following my Montserrat escapade, I took it easy the next day with only two sights on the itinerary: Casa Batlló (€23.5) and Park Güell (€7). I had pre-booked Casa Batlló the night before but when I showed up, there was no line at all. So if you’re going in the off-season, you can just show up at the box office whenever you want.
Casa Batlló was probably the only Barcelona sight worthy of its entrance fee. Not only was the audio guide included but some sections of the tour were presented in AR via the smartphone they give you at the entrance. You could see how the rooms were furnished and the inspiration behind the various shapes inside the house. It was truly magical. Once again, I got sucked into buying a souvenir photograph at the end of the tour which cost €12. I need more self-control.
Park Güell was next. If you’re thinking about walking up to it, you’ll be in for a rude surprise as it is a long and steep climb up. I took the bus instead. The bus stop for the line that goes up the hill was just a bit further up from Casa Batlló so you can knock out these two sights one right after the other.
Park Güell is a very photogenic spot. You’ll have to arm yourself with patience as all the tourists there want the same pictures: with the salamander at the entrance, on the bench overlooking the entrance/city, in the Hypostyle Room, and among the arches of the Laundry Room Portico.
I wanted to go up to the Cross as I heard it was the spot to get the best views of the city but I was still exhausted from the day before so I made my way back to the city center.
Day 6: Basilica Santa Maria del Mar, Barceloneta, FC Barcelona Match
On my last full day in the city, I started the day by visiting yet another church and ended it in what is arguably the true cathedral of Barcelona, the Camp Nou.
The first stop of the day was the Basilica Santa Maria del Mar, a prime example of the Catalan Gothic style (the Bacelona Cathedral that I visited on the first day is more in the neo-Gothic style). The guided tour which includes a rooftop visit is €8 and is very informative. Tours are given in Spanish and English and you are free to walk around the church once it’s over. Since this church is not as popular as the others, it almost felt like having the whole place to myself. Tours are limited to 15 people so you can ask as many questions as you’d like.
On the tour guide’s recommendation, I then went to the Church of Sant Jaume to check out the various chapels there and the altar. Once again, the church was completely empty and I took my time walking around.
From Sant Jaume, I then went for a stroll on the beach at Barceloneta. The weather was warm and beautiful. It’s a shame that the water was cold. I grabbed lunch at Arenal Restaurant by the beach. The food was delicious but make sure you take an indoor table as terrace tables get a 10% surcharge.
Then, it was time for the main event. I am not a FC Barcelona fan. However, when I saw that there was a Liga game taking place during my stay, I couldn’t pass the chance to see Messi and company in action. The ticket was €75.50 and located in the curve of the Nike section.
Barça’s opponents were league minnows Sporting de Gijón so the game was easily dominated by the home side. It was amazing to see Messi, Suarez, and Neymar score in real life. Just as amazing was to hear the FC Barcelona anthem as well as seeing the kop in action. Although the supporters were at the opposite end, one lady sitting beside me and my friend knew all of the songs so it was easy to follow along. It also helps that the songs sounded similar to those sung by the kop in Montréal so it was a great experience overall. The only thing I disliked were the lack of goal replays on the monitors and the cheesy FIFA (or was it Pro Evo?) celebrations when the home team scored. It was super corny. I also didn’t understand why the monitors could not show replays but played a bunch of commercials during the game. Truly maddening.
Day 7: Gothic Quarter
I only had a few hours the next day before my flight so I checked out of my Airbnb and dropped my luggage at luggage place one block from Plaça de Catalunya where I would be taking the bus to the airport. I went for a themed-walk centered on Roman architecture in the city. There are lots of Roman structures still standing around the city. If you have an hour to kill, I’d suggest walking around the Gothic Quarter to see them up close. You can find the itinerary in the National Geographic guidebook.
And that was my week in Barcelona. At some point during my stay I went to a small party at my friend’s house and they were horrified when I told them that Barcelona reminded me of San Juan in Puerto Rico. I still stand by that statement. Replace the Gothic Quarter/Cituat Viella by Old San Juan, the Castell Montjuïc by the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and all you got left are the works from Gaudí and FC Barcelona. It’s not a bad thing per se as Gaudí is all over the city and Barça are one of the biggest clubs in the world but, well, it’s no Paris.
Total Spent: €283
- Attractions: €170
- Souvenirs: €44
- Transport: €69
Have you ever visited Barcelona? If yes, what did you think?
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