When one thinks of Fiji, the first thing that comes to mind is “honeymoon destination.” With the countless adults-only resorts and couples packages on offer, the idea is not far from the truth. However if you dig a little deeper, there are enough activities on the 300+ islands to satisfy those looking for culture and adventure.
How to Get Aroud in Fiji
For this trip, I was part of a group organized by fellow Nomadness Travel Tribe member, Kenna Williams aka “Pusha Kee” aka Dubai Blackout Founder. The 25 of us where shuttled everywhere by chartered bus. Of course, island excursions were done by boat via South Sea Cruises. There is no Uber in Fiji and taxis are not cheap. Thankfully, most excursions include hotel transfers so they’re not out of reach for independent travelers who don’t drive.
Where to Stay in Fiji
We stayed at the Tokatoka Resort in Nadi, right by the airport. I had my own room, a quaint little studio, far away from the main road. Other than the airport and a couple of hotels, the surrounding area is literally farmland which meant that we would get woken up at 4 am by the sound of roosters. As a child of the third-world, it brought a sense of nostalgia but I imagine that it could be bothersome if one came from a big city.
The room itself had all the basic amenities including a safe, a fridge, a coffee/tea machine, and both a ceiling fan and a/c. There was also free (and slow) wifi with the option to pay for high-speed wifi. Continental breakfast was included in the price though one could order a hot breakfast for a fee.
Where to Get a SIM Card in Fiji
Since we were going to be outside all the time, I couldn’t simply rely on wifi. I bought a SIM card right after going through immigration at Nadi airport. For $25-30 FJD ($15-20 CAD), I got a Digicel SIM card with 4 GB of data which was more than enough for the trip.
Fiji Itinerary
Day 0: Los Angeles Layover
Flight from Montreal to Los Angeles: $550 CAD
Car Rental: $45 USD
Lunch at Roscoe’s: $12 USD + tip
Santa Monica Pier Parking: $6 USD
Dockweiler Beach Parking: $3 USD
Dinner at LAX P.F. Chang’s: FREE with Priority Pass
Flight from Los Angeles to Nadi: $905 CAD
There are only two options to get to Fiji from North America’s East Coast: flying to LAX (Los Angeles’ main international airport) or SFO (San Francisco’s airport). I spent months monitoring flights to both airport and ended up going to LAX for $550 round-trip with a short layover in Minneapolis on both legs. This flight would land me in Los Angeles a full 9 hours before the flight to Fiji, leaving me with plenty of time to get out of the airport and explore the city.
All the travelers in our group picked the LAX flight. Through Whatsapp, a few of us coordinated meeting at the airport. We rented two SUVs and split up into mini-groups. I joined a nice couple from North Carolina and we decided to do an impromptu self-driven tour of Inglewood based on locations featured in HBO’s Insecure.
Our first stop was the Dunes’ apartment complex where Issa lived with her ex-boyfriend Lawrence. The building is only 10 minutes away from the airport and we weren’t the only fans who stopped by to take a few pictures.
Since it was getting close to lunchtime, we decided to go check out Worldwide Tacos, a take-out place also featured in Insecure. We were confused when we arrived because it seemed like no one was there. Both windows were covered and no one answered our knocks. A construction crew nearby confirmed that the place was open as they were waiting for their tacos. They were told to wait two hours. Yes. You read that right. TWO-HOUR WAIT FOR TACOS. Another regular came over to place his order and told us that at this time we would have a three-hour wait. Needless to say we didn’t order anything. If anyone reading this wants to try those tacos, just call in ahead of time with your order and they’ll call you back when it’s ready for pick-up.
Getting back into the car, we drove through Windsor Hills with its palm trees-lined streets, we drove past the We Got Y’all office, stopped at the bank where Lawrence was depositing his checks in Season 1, and finally stopped at Roscoe’s for lunch. Fried chicken with waffles sounded like a good choice. I ordered the Obama Special which consists of three chicken wings and one waffle. It doesn’t sound like much but it was still a lot of food for my Canadian belly. Although I managed to eat the waffle, I could only finish two out the three wings.
Our next stop was the Santa Monica Pier. I had gone before during a previous trip to California but my traveling partners hadn’t. We met up with the second SUV there and witnessed the first ever official taco-eating contest. An eating contest was not exactly on my bucket list but I’m glad I will never think about watching an event like this ever again. It was disgusting. In 8 minutes, the eventual winner wolfed down 62 carnitas tacos. I couldn’t watch the whole thing. About 5 minutes in, the sight of 12 contestants shoving tacos mixed with water down their throat made me nauseous. I sat away from the madness until it was over.
From the Santa Monica Pier, we raced against the sun to Dockweiler beach to watch the sunset along with planes taking off from LAX. Then, it was time to go to the airport and check-in.
Fun fact about Fiji Airways: even if you check-in online, you still need to go to the counter to get your luggage/carry-on verified and your boarding pass. If you’re team carry-on, the type of carry-on you bring with you will be the difference between a 2-minute check-in and a 10-minute check-in. I had two backpacks, each small enough to fit under the seat so I went through quickly enough; but those with a roller carry-on were often asked to put it on the scale to check the weight.
For dinner, we ate at P.F. Chang’s. Priority Pass owners get a $30 voucher to eat there so it was a no-brainer. We almost changed our minds because their system which handled orders and the customer queue broke down while we were waiting for a table. It magically came back online right as we were getting up to leave and so we stayed for our free meal.
Boarding our flight was an adventure. First, our gate was located in a terminal with a crappy PA system. There was one gate agent calling out the rows without a microphone but no one could hear him due to the terminal’s echo. He resorted to holding up a sign with row numbers. But the order didn’t really matter in the end as we were all taken on buses across the tarmac to another smaller terminal where we all bunched up on the jet bridge, waiting for them to open the aircraft’s door. Once everyone was seated and sorted, another announcement came on the plane’s speakers. They were not done loading up the checked luggage so we would be delayed by another 20 minutes. It was truly the most convoluted boarding process I’ve ever experienced in my life but I didn’t let it dampen my spirit. I was on my way to Fiji after all!
Day 1: Nadi, Cloud 9
Cloud 9 Excursion: $237.02 FJD (around $145 CAD, including food/drink voucher)
Happy Hour at the Westin Denarau Island Resort: one drink included in activity fee
Dinner and Meke Love Cultural Show at the Coco Palms: included in the activity fee
We landed in Nadi shortly after 6 am. Another fun fact about Fiji, they are very strict when it comes to prohibited items. Any type of food, animal, animal products, plants, fruits, and wooden article must be declared or discarded before going through customs. You can’t even bring a banana in.
After customs, a few of us bought SIM cards at Digicel, right outside customs – a painless process. However by the time we had bought SIM cards and the rest of the group had gone through customs, it was already well past 7 am. Half of the group, including me, had reserved a spot on the first boat out to Cloud 9. Our hotel pick-up was at 7:45 am which didn’t leave us much time to settle. We arrived at the hotel around 7:30 am. The Cloud 9 group didn’t even bother checking in. We went to the restaurant’s bathroom, dug out our bathing suits from our luggage, cleaned ourselves up, and changed in a rush. I never brushed my teeth, cleaned myself, AND fully changed outfits so fast before in my life. We were a bit late but thankfully the bus waited for us – our first dealing with “Fiji time” turned out to be in our favor. In short, if you’re planning to do the 9:15 am Cloud 9 excursion on the day of you arrival, make sure to get to your hotel before 7:30 am or get a taxi straight to Port Denarau and change there. Once we checked in at the Port, we still had to wait another 30 minutes before boarding our boat so there’s still plenty of time if you make alternative travel arrangements.
Cloud 9 is a floating bar and pizzeria in a beautiful lagoon about 45 minutes from Port Denarau. The ticket includes a voucher for food and drink which is enough for one pizza and one basic drink (gin and tonic for example). Ordering a cocktail with the pizza will be a few dollars over the voucher amount. Only credit cards are accepted. The pizza is pretty good for something being cooked out in the middle of the ocean. I had two drinks, including one amazing Mai Tai.
Like the Blue Lagoon in Iceland, you are paying for the experience of being out at sea in a relaxing atmosphere so there should be no surprise that the food and drinks will be overpriced. There is snorkel equipment and life jackets for rent. The water is crystal clear and at perfect temperature for swimming. There is not much to see in terms of snorkeling unless you venture all the way to the reef. Unfortunately, the current was picking up when I tried to swim out there so I didn’t make it. The massive school of fish resting under Cloud 9 was consolation enough.
Upon our return to the hotel, we had to rush again to get ready for Happy Hour and dinner. Happy Hour was at the Westin Denarau, not far from the Port. For dinner, we went next door to Coco Palms. Dinner was preceded by a meke which is a traditional Fijian dance. At the end of the show, we were given kava, a traditional welcome drink. However, we would later find out that this particular kava was very watered down compared to the one given at villages. The food was served buffet-style and was pretty good. We had four different desserts, all coconut-based. If there’s one thing to get used to in Fiji, it’s the abundance of fish-based and coconut-based meals.
Day 2: Mamanuca Islands
Seaspray Adventure (lunch included): $259 FJD (around $162 CAD) ( (included in the activity fee)
Dinner at the hotel
On Day 2, we had a full day at sea. Our first stop was Modriki Island, the site of Tom Hanks’ movie Cast Away. The island was completely deserted when we arrived and there were only a handful of tourists stopping by throughout our time on the island. All this to say you can have the place all to yourself. Bring a lot of sunscreen, a hat, and flip flops. The sun is burning hot which means the sand is also hot. I spent most of the time in the water, snorkeling right off the shore.
After Modriki, we headed to Yanuya Island to visit a village. Since it was Sunday, the locals were not out and about. We walked through parts of the village with our guide who explained Fijian village life. As someone who grew up in Haiti, I didn’t really learn anything surprising about island life and could have skipped this visit.
Our guide and boat crew were super friendly. Lunch is included with the excursion and it was delicious. Since the cruise took up most of the day, we didn’t schedule any other activity. Our time at sea did give me a nasty sunburn that was relieved by aloe vera. I’ll repeat myself again – bring a lot of sunscreen, preferably SPF 40 or above.
Day 3: Sigatoka
Offroad Cave Safari (lunch included): $285 FJD (around $178 CAD) (included in the activity fee)
Dinner at Bonefish Seafood Restaurant: included in the activity fee
On Day 3, we stayed on the big island and ventured out to Sigatoka, an hour south of Nadi. There we made a quick pit stop at a souvenir shop to check-in for our tour. Then we were driven to a jetty where we crossed the Sigatoka river before boarding ATVs that would take us to the Priest’s house. From the jetty crossing to the Priest’s house, our guide explained the history of the area and villages along the way. The area is considered Fiji’s agricultural heart with fields of tobacco and various vegetables sprinkling the luscious landscape.
At the priest’s house, we had another kava ceremony and received blessings to go in the Naihehe Cave. Where the Coco Palms’ kava tasted like water mixed with soil, this kava tasted like water used to wash dirty paintbrushes. And yet the latter was somehow the most palatable of the two. Go figure.
I was very disappointed to learn that the Naihehe Cave had no bats but its history was interesting. It was used for ceremonies back when cannibalism was a way of life. It was also the perfect place to hide and ambush attackers due to the narrow opening at the entrance – aptly called the pregnancy gap – which only allowed one person to enter at a time. Going through the pregnancy gap required some planking skills as the combination of water gushing out of the cave and the very low ceiling prevented anyone from going in on all fours.
The interior of the cave is completely dark. We did a test, turning off all of our headlamps to see how dark it was, and we couldn’t see past our nose. According to our guide, there were some secret entrances at the top where warriors would get out and harvest yams, fruits, and other crops. Over time, nature took over and sealed the entrances. There is also a water hole inside the cave but no one knows how deep it goes.
A delicious BBQ lunch concluded our visit and we took the long road back to Nadi.
Day 4: Nadi
Nadi City Tour: included in the activity fee
Dinner at Tu’s Place: included in the activity fee
The next day, we remained on Viti Levu for more sightseeing. Our first stop was the Sri Siva Subramaniya temple, the largest Hindu temple in the Southern hemisphere. Women have to cover their shoulders and use a sarong to cover their legs. Shoes are forbidden and must be left outside. Our visit was short but interesting. We learned stories about various deities including Ganesha, Vishnu, and Brahma. Each section of the temple’s ceiling had murals depicting various stories. Although the temple is small, it’s very beautiful and definitely worth a look.
Next, we had the tour-mandated souvenir shopping stop. Instead of going into the souvenir shop, a few of us wandered in the neighborhood a bit, looking for stuff not made from China. We were attracted by a storefront sign touting authentic Fijian handicraft but were turned off by the prices and the pushy sellers. When we left the store, we bumped into a local who told us that the “authentic” store was run by Indians and not Fijians. He went on a rant about how Indians were taking over the country with their businesses, leaving little to the Afro-Fijians. It’s an argument that was oddly familiar to me, having grown up in a country where colorism is a fact of life. He guided us to another handicraft store simply called “Fijian Handicraft.” Unfortunately, I could not find it on Google Maps while writing this post. All I remember is that it was down an alley not far from the Nadi market. There is a giant mural in the alley in question with arrows pointing in the right direction. There were no pushy sellers there but we didn’t stay long and I didn’t buy anything.
Our next two stops were not very interesting for me as they were no different than my childhood home. We visited the Namaka Mini Market, a small market selling fresh fruits and vegetables; and the Sabeto Sangam School. I don’t particularly like the practice of taking tourists to “see” disadvantaged children at school. I also don’t like kids. So I opted out and stayed in the bus.
We then went to Viseisei village, one of the oldest settlements in Fiji. According to local lore, Viseisei is where the great chief Lutunasobasoba first settled. It is also where Fiji’s first Methodist missionaries landed. Before entering the village, we were able to buy handicrafts made by the local women. There were various types of jewelry, mini-replicas of traditional weapons, and magnets – all reasonably priced. We were given a tour of the village which was in the middle of Fiji Day preparations and were invited back for the celebrations scheduled for the next day.
The rest of the tour was more laid-back. We visited the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, a quiet botanical garden sitting at the foot of a mountain sharing the same name. There were multiple hammocks and resting areas throughout the garden which makes it a great place for those looking for peace and quiet. We were also served one of the most delicious fruit punch I’ve ever drank. Although gardens are not my thing, this was a nice time-out from our hectic schedule.
We ended the tour at the Sabeto Hot Springs and Mud Pool. I skipped the mud pool and went straight to the thermal bath. It was relaxing at first but thermal bath and hot weather do not make a good mix. I found myself sweating after 10 minutes. There was an optional massage but we were running late on our schedule – “Fiji time” strikes back – so none of us were able to get one.
Day 5: Kuata Island
Snorkel with Sharks (lunch included): $335 FJD (around $210 CAD)
Dinner at the hotel
We had no activities scheduled for our last full day in Fiji. It was essentially a do-whatever-you-want day. Some people in our group went to the spa, others went to the village’s Fiji Day celebrations; I booked a full-day excursion to go snorkel with sharks off the coast of Kuata Island. Seeing sharks up close has always been an item on my bucket list. I knew about shark cage diving in Mexico and South Africa but never imagined the possibility of actually swimming alongside sharks. So you cannot imagine my glee when I discovered this activity while browsing through the South Sea Crusises website.
Similarly to the Cloud 9 excursion, round-trip transfer between the hotel and Port Denarau is included. From the Denarau Marina, it’s a two-hour boat ride to Kuata so bring some entertainment! The excursion is hosted by the Barefoot Kuata Resort so we had full access to their facilities. After a brief intro from our guides, we all signed our life away and went to pick up our gear. I had my own scuba mask but you can loan one from the resort as well as a pair of fins. Gear sorted, we jumped on a small boat with our guide and sailed for about 20 minutes to a corral reef where the sharks reside.
Our guide had three simple instructions before giving the go signal: don’t chase the sharks, don’t touch the sharks, and don’t make any sudden movements if they get close. I’d lie if I said that I wasn’t nervous about going in the water but I let my worries go once I dove. Que será, será as the song says. The white-tipped sharks were visible right away, laying on the ocean floor. They gradually became more active once our captain started to attract the smaller fish closer to the surface with bits of food. The sharks followed and we soon found ourselves swimming alongside half a dozen sharks. Words cannot describe how cool – and frightening – it was to have a shark brush up against my belly while I was focused on two other sharks swimming in front of me. A few black-tipped sharks joined the party which meant that by the end our dive, we were surrounded by 15 sharks total. It was surreal.
We returned to the resort for a delicious buffet lunch and then we were free to explore the surroundings until our return boat arrived. I spent that time lounging by the pool, changing chairs every once in a while to get away from the scorching sun. Here’s another reminder to load up on sunscreen.
The return to the hotel was exhausting. Although the morning bus was solely for people going on the excursion, the return bus was a regular hotel transfer bus so it didn’t leave Port Denarau until it was almost full. My clothes were all wet from the rain as I walked from the Marina to the bus so I was tired, cold, and hungry. The fact that my hotel was the bus’ last stop made it even worse. It was a slightly disappointing end to an amazing day.
Day 6: Nadi / Los Angeles
Flavours of Fiji Cooking Class: included in the activity fee
Massage and Spa at Essence of Fiji: included in the activity fee
Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Los Angeles LAX/El Segundo: Free (booked with Marriott Certificate)
Dinner at Killer Shrimp
Drinks at Broadway Bar
Since our flight was in the evening, we had two more activities on our itinerary. The first was a cooking class at Flavours of Fiji and the second was a massage session at Essence of Fiji.
As someone who doesn’t like cooking, I found the cooking class fun and interesting. We cooked two meals: Ika Vakalolo (fish in coconut cream) with Rourou and Chicken Curry with Roti. After cooking each, we had to eat them. Both were very delicious.
We then made our way to the Essence of Fiji transit lounge where we all got a 15-minute foot massage with the option of adding more if needed. The massage was very soothing and relaxing. It was a good way to end the trip.
At the airport, we took over the Fiji Airways lounge. One of the benefits of travelling with fellow regular travelers is that half of the group had cards with lounge access so we brought the others as guests to keep the group together one last time. The lounge itself was great. There were good options for dinner, drinks aplenty, and clean showers. Thanks to timezones, we landed in Los Angeles in the early afternoon of the same day. I had a free night certificate in my Marriott account which I used to book a room since my flight back to Montreal was the next day.
In the evening, those of the group who were still in Los Angeles met up for dinner at Killer Shrimp and then a few of us went for drinks at the Broadway Bar for one last farewell.
Final Thoughts
I didn’t quite know what to expect when I booked this trip. In my mind, Fji was always best summarized by couples walking down sandy white beaches lapped by crystal blue water. Although that last part is very true, I also discovered a place of adventure, a place of great food – God those pineapples alone make me want to go back – and a place filled with warm people who will greet you “Bula!” everywhere you go. I got so used to saying “Bula” to everyone over there that it felt weird to not say it when I checked in at my hotel in Los Angeles.
There are always concerns when traveling with a group. Am I going to get along with everyone? Will someone cause drama? Is everyone a grown-ass adult? But from the minute we met up in Los Angeles, the vibe was just right and I had a wonderful time. Would I recommend Fiji for solo travelers? I don’t think so. Although I met two Canadian dudes and an Aussie mother and daughter during the sharks excursion, I was still pretty lonely that day. We did everything else as a group and there are a lot of activities I would not have done if I was by myself. So I strongly suggest going with at least one other person.
Trip Breakdown
Flight(s): $1455 CAD
Activities: ~$1515 CAD
Total: ~$3000 CAD
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