After a frenetic first few days where I hit Cappadocia, Antalya, and Pamukkale, the second half of my trip was much slower as I visited Selçuk and then spent the remaining days in Istanbul.
Itinerary
Day 7: Selçuk – Izmir
Ephesus Archeological Site: ₺60 = $14 CAD
Train to Izmir: ₺11.80 = $3 CAD
DoubleTree by Hilton Izmir Airport: ₺254 = $60 for one night (breakfast included)
My main objective at Ephesus was to capture the Library of Celsus without any crowds. It’s why I stayed in Selçuk instead of Kuşadası. It’s why I woke up early yet again instead of staying in late even though I had nothing else planned for the day. Well, I’m happy to say that I was very successful in my endeavor.
There are multiple ways to get to Ephesus from Selçuk. You can book a tour, take a taxi, take a dolmuş, or walk. Since I am all about saving money when possible, I decided to walk. From Saint John Hotel, it’s a 45-minute walk to the North entrance of Ephesus. It might seem long but it’s actually a pleasant walk thanks to the tree-lined sidewalk bordering the boulevard.
I arrived 30 minutes after opening and there were already two small-group tours there. However, their guides were stopping at each point of interest to give a bit of history. I made a beeline for the Library and got there before both groups.
Pictures done, I walked up to the South Entrance and cued up Rick Steve’s Ancient Ephesus Audio Tour on my phone and gradually made my way back down to the North entrance while listening to the very informative guide. The public toilets and the Great Theatre were the most interesting stops outside the Library. By the time I got to the Library of Celsus’ section on the audioguide, there were four group tours at its steps, showing the importance of being there early.
I spent about 90 minutes at the site and then walked back to the hotel the same way I came from. I picked up my luggage at the hotel and walked to the train station where I bought a ticket for Izmir’s suburban train (IZBAN) instead of the regular train to Izmir. Although I had to transfer lines to get to my hotel near Izmir’s airport, the suburban train would cost me less since it had a stop at walking distance to my hotel while taking the train would have required a transfer to the metro.
I got lots of stares during my walk from the Sarnıç railway station to the hotel, probably because I was the only foreigner on foot in the area. Although I didn’t feel in danger, I wouldn’t recommend doing that walk as a solo female traveler at night because you’ll have to walk past a bus depot and a couple of car repair shops.
Day 8: Izmir – Istanbul
Flight from Izmir to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines: ₺151.99 = $34 CAD
Istanbulkart: ₺6 = $1 CAD
Havaist bus from airport to Sultanahmet: ₺18 = $4 CAD
DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul – Sirkeci: ₺2,412 = $550 CAD for 4 nights (breakfast included)
Dinner at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta: ₺35 = $8 CAD
The next morning, I went straight to Izmir’s airport for my flight to Istanbul. The Hilton had a complimentary shuttle which made it pretty convenient. One thing to note is that the self-service check-in kiosks at Izmir’s airport don’t all work so I had to line up to get my boarding pass at the counter even though I had checked in online the day before. Since I only had my backpack, it was pretty quick but if you have any type of luggage, it’d be best to show up early for your flight.
I waited for my flight at the Priority Pass lounge. It’s a smaller lounge than YUL’s BNC and CAI’s First Class but it’s completely bathed in sunlight in the morning which could be annoying if you’re looking to work but a great place to get some vitamin D.
The flight was extremely short. It felt like we spent almost as much time in the air as taxiing after landing at Istanbul. Since it was a domestic flight, there was no customs to clear and I soon found myself at the Arrivals area, looking for the bus to the city.
The bus that services Istanbul from the new airport is called Havaist. They have several lines that go to various parts of the city. If you’re staying in the Sultanahmet district, the bus will drop you off at Sultanahmet Square, right in the middle of the action. Fare prices vary according to the destination. Getting to either Sultanahmet or Taksim costs ₺18. Schedule and fares can be checked on Havaist’s website. You’ll need an Istanbulkart with at least ₺18 on it to board the bus. You can conveniently purchase it and top it up from the vending machines next to the buses.
I stayed at the Hilton DoubleTree not far from Sultanahmet Square. Once again, I was upgraded to a room with a balcony on the highest floor but it turned out to be a poisoned chalice. With the hotel’s restaurant located on the rooftop, I constantly heard chairs scraping against floor from mid-afternoon into the evening. It was annoying but not a major hindrance.
Although I arrived early in the afternoon, a thunderstorm forced me to remain at the hotel until dinner time. I went to the highly-rated Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta for dinner. There was a line stretching for almost a block leading to the restaurant but as a solo traveler requiring only a table for one, I was able to bypass the entire line and got seated after barely five minutes of waiting. I got their köfte along with a salad and soft drink and it was delicious. Not a bad introduction to Istanbul.
Day 9: Istanbul
5-Day Istanbul Museum Pass: ₺85 = $19.5 CAD
Topkapi Palace: Included in Museum Pass
Hagia Sophia: Included in Museum Pass
Basilica Cistern: ₺20 = $4.5 CAD
Istanbul Archeological Museum: Included in Museum Pass
Dinner at Ahırkapı Balıkçısı: ₺95 = $22
In most Turkish cities, museums are often closed on Mondays. I arrived in Istanbul on a Saturday afternoon. Since I was leaving on a Wednesday, it meant I had to fit as many sights as possible on Sunday and Tuesday.
I had an early start on Sunday morning, showing up at the gates of Topkapi palace at 8:30am, 30 minutes before opening. There were already a few tourists there but the guards didn’t let anyone through before 9am at which time we were free to go to the ticket office. There, I bought the Museum Pass which included admission to the Palace and the Harem.
Museum Pass purchased, I made a beeline for the Harem, a vast complex containing the Apartments of the Queen Mother, the Apartments of the Sultan’s Favorite Wives, the Imperial Hall, the Imperial Baths, and lots more rooms, courtyards, and corridors. The corridors are narrow and some rooms are tiny so I recommend going straight to it after opening.
The Topkapi Palace is huge. One can easily spend half a day there. Other than the Harem, I really liked the Kitchen section and the Chamber of Holy Relics where you can see Moses’ Staff, David’s Sword, and the keys to the Kaaba (the black cube at the center Mecca for those who don’t know) among other relics. In that same section of the Palace, the Audience Chamber houses several belongings of prophet Muhammad including hair from his beard and his swords. Pictures are not allowed in the Chamber of Holy Relics.
The other section that I was really looking forward to visiting was the Treasury but it was unfortunately closed for renovations so I went to my next stop, the iconic Hagia Sophia.
Fun fact, Hagia Sophia was first a church, then a cathedral, then a mosque, and is now a museum. A mihrab stands in place of what would be the altar. Giant medallions spell the name of Allah, Muhammad, and the first four caliphs. And several mosaics depict Christian imagery on the walls. It’s truly amazing despite the scaffolding behind.
Not so fun fact, although there are two lines to get inside – one for Museum Pass holders and one to purchase tickets. They both merge at the entrance turnstile so you really only save the time it would take you to purchase your ticket.
After Hagia Sophia, I walked a couple blocks away to the Basilica Cistern which featured in the James Bond film From Russia with Love, the Assassin’s Creed: Revelations videogame, and the Dan Brown novel/movie Inferno.
The interior is dark and humid. Small lights at the bottom of the columns give it a gloomy atmosphere. Of course, it wouldn’t be a touristic sight without the associated touristy gimmick, in this case a photo stand where you can dress up as a sultan and wife. It really felt out place in there but didn’t totally ruin the experience.
There are plenty of spots along the walkways to take pictures of the yellow/red-lighted columns but the area with the Medusa column bases can get extremely crowded so either go there early or late in the afternoon.
My next stop was supposed to be the Ibrahim Pasha Palace which hosts the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum but I just couldn’t find the entrance amidst all the temporary construction in Sultanahmet Square for iftar. While walking around the square, I was accosted by a Turkish man offering to show me around. First, I declined. Then he said he knew a spot with great view of the Blue Mosque. It was the rooftop of his “uncle’s shop.” I already knew he was going to try to sell me things but I went along anyway to check out the view.
At the shop, I was introduced to his uncle and a few other guys. They tried to get me to buy carpets (sorry, no space in my luggage), perfume (I’m allergic), jewelry (also allergic) and tea (not sure I can bring back leaves and powder). Once he realized his tactics were not working with me, I told him he picked the wrong person to bring here and he totally agreed but let me go on the rooftop anyway.
When I came back down, he walked me back to the square and the most surreal thing happened. First, he asked me out (!!!). When I told him, I didn’t have the time, he asked if he could kiss me before I go (!!!!!!). The same guy who was trying to hustle me 15 minutes before. I graciously turned him down and went on my way, completely flabbergasted at the whole thing.
As crowds grew and the temperature got hotter, I retreated back to the hotel to recharge and go back out in the evening.
My final attraction of the day was Istanbul’s Archeological Museum. I went a couple of hours before closing and it was fairly empty. Although the sculptures were not as impressive as Antalya’s museum, there were still various artifacts worth a look such as mosaics, sarcophagi, and some writings on terra cotta canvases.
Day 10: Istanbul
Food Tour: $100 USD = $130.5 CAD
If there is one thing that I regretted not doing in Egypt, it’s a food tour. This time around, I was determined to do one and ended up booking a 6-hour food tour with Istanbul on Food called The Taste of Two Continents.
The tour started early with a Turkish breakfast at a local teahouse by the Spice Bazaar on the European side and then we crossed over to Kadıköy via ferry to continue the tour on the Asian side.
We ate various staples of Turkish cuisine throughout the day such as simit (the bagel-like bread that quickly became one of my breakfast favorites), iskender kebab, tantuni (a delicious wrap sandwich), and tavuk gogsu (a pudding-like dessert made with chicken breast). It’s an experience that I strongly recommend.
Day 11: Istanbul
The Blue Mosque: FREE
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts: Included in Museum Pass
Grand Bazaar: FREE
Dinner at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta: ₺35 = $8 CAD
Although the Blue Mosque is open every day to visitors, it’s only open for visiting during set times since it’s a functional mosque. I went in the first time slot (8:30-11:30 am) to avoid the crowds but honestly, I should have just stayed in bed and sleep in until mid-morning. Both the forecourt and domed ceiling were under renovations so there wasn’t much to see. I was very disappointed but it gives me a good reason to come back in the future.
I mentioned before that I couldn’t find the entrance to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts amidst all the iftar-related constructions. Well, it turns out one of my food tour companions had gone a few days before and told me where to find the entrance so I finally made it on my last full day in Istanbul.
The museum has three sections. The first shows various iterations of the Quran throughout history, the second features carpets, and the last is all about traditional Turkish fashion. If you want a crash course on Turkish history, this museum is a good place to go thanks to the various panels summarizing each period.
Following the museum, I walked to world-famous Grand Bazaar and let me tell you, the stories about its maze-like structure are very true. I got lost after doing three random turns. Getting lost in there is part of the fun of course, but combined with the heat, it just made me exhausted. I got out of there without buying anything.
The constant traveling around the country finally caught up to me and I returned to the hotel after the Gran Bazaar and some souvenir shopping. I was too tired to make it across the bridge to the Galata Tower. The other side of the Golden Horn will have to wait for my return.
Day 12: Istanbul – Cairo – Toronto – Montreal
Havaist bus from Sultanahmet to airport: ₺18 = $4 CAD
Dinner at CAI First Class Lounge: FREE with Priority Pass
Breakfast and lunch at YYZ Premium Plaza Lounge: FREE with Priority Pass
Flight from Toronto to Montreal with WestJet: $77 CAD
Despite having an evening flight, I didn’t really do anything on my final day in Istanbul. I woke up as late as possible but early enough to grab breakfast, and then returned to my room to relax.
The Havaist bus stop was at the same location than where I was dropped off so that was easy enough. There were no problems at the airport though one woman in front of me at the immigration line got escorted somewhere else due to what seemed like visa issues so keep your visa on you until you leave the country.
I think I already explained how pathetic Cairo’s Priority Pass Lounge is in terms of offerings so no need to rehash things but this time around they did have some “hot” food so at least I ate something other than bread.
There were plenty of empty seats on the return flight to Toronto. My row was full but the man who sat in the middle seat went to another row which meant that both the man in the aisle seat and I had space to spread out. We both were able to sleep somewhat comfortably.
In Toronto, I ended up in the wrong terminal but the employees helpfully steered me the right way. Let me just say one more time how much I hate that airport. The directions to one the Premium Plaza Lounges were inaccurate on the Priority Pass but once again, an airport employee helped me out. At least their customer service is on point.
Final Thoughts
Despite the renovations, the long bus rides, and language barrier, Turkey has become one of my favorite countries to visit. I never felt unsafe as a solo female traveler. Public transportation was amazingly reliable AND cheap. When I was lost, the locals did not hesitate to help even if we didn’t speak the same language. The people I met on the various tours I booked were all great. The food. My God. The food was great. I ended up bringing back with me apple tea and Turkish delights. I usually never bring anything back from my trips beyond fridge magnets. All in all, I had a lot of fun and will definitely go back to visit the sights I missed.
Before moving on to the trip breakdown, I’d like to give a shout out to two websites that made organizing this trip so much easier. First, Turkey Travel Planner has been an immeasurable resource in terms of things to do, where to go, and how public transportation works. If you need one site to plan an epic trip, it’s that one. Second, Will Fly For Food has been great for food/restaurant recommendations. If you are foodie, take some time to read their Turkish Food Guide before your trip. Your stomach will thank you.
Trip Breakdown
International Flight: $380 CAD roundtrip with EgyptAir
Accomodations: $1310 CAD
- Koza Cave Hotel: $545 CAD (2 nights)
- Hotel Twenty: $50 CAD (2 nights)
- Bellamaritimo Hotel: $34 CAD (1 night)
- Saint John Hotel: $71 CAD (1 night)
- DoubleTree by Hilton Izmir Airport: $60 CAD (1 night)
- DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul – Sirkeci: $550 (4 nights)
Transportation: $277 CAD
- Train from Montreal to Toronto: $46 CAD
- UP Express from downtown Toronto to Pearson Airport: $12 CAD
- Flight from Istanbul to Nevşehir with Turkish Airlines: $42 CAD
- Shuttle from Nevşehir to Göreme: $15 CAD
- Kamil Koç bus to Antalya: $20 CAD
- Antalyakart: $1 CAD
- Pamukkale Turizm bus to Denizli: $12 CAD
- Dolmuş to Pamukkale: $1 CAD
- Dolmuş to Denizli: $1 CAD
- Train to Selçuk: $4 CAD
- Train to Izmir: $3 CAD
- Flight from Izmir to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines: $34 CAD
- Istanbulkart: $1 CAD
- Havaist bus from airport to Sultanahmet: $4 CAD
- Havaist bus from Sultanahmet to airport: $4 CAD
- Flight from Toronto to Montreal with WestJet: $77 CAD
Tours & Attractions: $690.5 CAD
- Hot Air Balloon Ride in Cappadocia: €190
- Cappadocia Green Tour: $64.5 CAD
- Cappadocia Red Tour: $60 CAD
- Upper Düden Waterfalls Park Entrance Fee: $1 CAD
- Perge, Side, Aspendos, & Manavgat Waterfall Day Tour: $85 CAD
- Antalya Museum: $7 CAD
- Hierapolis Archeological Site: $11 CAD
- Ephesus Archeological Site: $14 CAD
- 5-Day Istanbul Museum Pass: $19.5 CAD
- Basilica Cistern: $4.5 CAD
- The Taste of Two Continents Food Tour: $100 USD
- The Blue Mosque: FREE
- Grand Bazaar: FREE
Food: $97.5 CAD (all dinners above $20 included one entrée and dessert)
- Dinner at Nazar Börek & Cafe: $7 CAD
- Dinner at Coffedocia: $24 CAD
- Dinner at Hasanağa Restaurant: $18.5 CAD
- Dinner at Mehmet and Ali Baba Kebab House: $10 CAD
- Dinner at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta: $8 CAD
- Dinner at Ahırkapı Balıkçısı: $22
- Dinner at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta: $8 CAD
Other Expenses: ~$140 CAD
- E-Visa for Entry into Turkey: $60 USD
- Tips: ~$25-50 CAD
Total: ~$2895 CAD
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